Saturday, September 10, 2005

La Cucina Mexicana

I've been looking for good Mexican in Hawai`i for ten years. I'd chase down every rumor, from the hole in the wall in Wahiawa [the cockroaches are part of the ambience, I was told] to the tequila drenched roast chickens at Ward. I've had nice meals in friends' kitchens, and Carlos showed me a place in Kaua`i that was good; otherwise ... nada. It is a state of canned beans, bulk tortillas, and cheap yellow cheeses.

Nothing here has ever approached some of the amazing dishes I had in Mexico City. But shoots, cuz ... things are starting to change. Three new places have opened within walking distance of my studio, and all are yummy.

Roy and I had lunch at the newest on, Los Chaparros [no link yet], in Mo`ili`ili. It's run by a Mexican guy and his Japanese wife, and staffed by a bunch of hunky cousins from Mexico City. We split a super refreshing pozole, full of big chunks of melt in your mouth pork, then I ordered mojo de ajo, he ordered a tostado. They get huge bonus points from me for offering crusty French bread alongside the corn or flour tortillas. I love being able to spread refried beans across good bread, and this is the first time I've seen it here. I'll be back.

Mi Casa in Monserrat took over my favorite, and seemingly cursed, spot. It's where Zazou used to be. Nice and open to the street. The owner makes thick corn tortillas to order; they're almost like a bread. Their flor de jamaica was the perfect drink on a hot summer day. My only complaint is they don't use oil or lard, but the food still tastes yummy.

And Baja Tacos is right down the road. They serve standard Tijuana style tacos: small tortillas, with bits of meat, cilantro, and salsa on top. This seems to confuse a lot of people - you will be held up in line as customers argue about how it can't be a taco without lettuce and sour cream and cheese. Have patience: the carnitas are crisp, the carne asada tender, and the adobado nice and spicy. All of it tastes super fresh. I think I want one now.

I still have two to check out. La Michoacana in Kaheka intrigues me, and there is supposed to be a place in `Ewa that serves tongue tacos.

It is so nice tofinally have good Latin grinds in Hawai`i.

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